5 Fully renovating your kitchen will update the space, add value to your home and appeal to potential buyers. It’s a big undertaking, so you want to follow all the right steps to ensure the final results match your original design vision. In the pursuit to create the ideal, you may be wondering whether to install your new cabinets or floors first. Here’s a look at the pros and cons of either order: Floors first Pros Many people like to put in first to avoid having to cut the material around cabinets and appliances. This is the main draw for those who start with floors. What’s more, some worry that by installing cabinets first, it will be harder to switch them out in the future, as you’ll be stuck with the same cabinet footprint you had before. However, if you’re, you’re likely doing so in a style you won’t want to change later.
Finally, putting flooring down beneath base cabinets offers a clean look and saves you from having to install quarter rounds with your cabinets. “New floors can get scratched during cabinet installation.” Cons Starting with floors can have many drawbacks. For starters, installing the floors throughout the kitchen, even under the cabinets, wastes flooring materials. You won’t see the flooring beneath your cabinets and appliances, so why pay for the material and installation? Then, if you replace the flooring, you’d have to take out the cabinets as well, making for a costly renovation down the road for you or future homeowners. Finally, the material you choose may also affect the order of your installation.
Wood floors expand and contract with changing temperature and moisture, and it needs room for this process. Installing floors beneath your cabinets could cause wood to buckle when it tries to expand. This will damage your new floor.
For this reason, some experts recommend installing wood floors after you finish your cabinets. Also, floating floors can’t be installed under cabinets because the cabinets will be too heavy and restrict the floor from expanding and contracting. This could cause the floor to come apart. Cabinets first Pros Starting with cabinets allows you to avoid many of the issues you’d face with doing things the other way around. You won’t waste time and money on flooring you won’t see.
You’re less likely to damage your new floors by starting with cabinets – if you have your new floors down and, you run the risk of scratching or denting them during installation. Cons By starting with cabinets, you essentially create a footprint you’ll have to stick to during future renovations. Additionally, you’ll have to cut your flooring to fit around the base cabinets, which makes installation more expensive and time-consuming. Built-in appliances will be trapped in place as long as you have this flooring. You’re basically cornering them with your flooring material, making switching built-ins much harder. Of course, you can purchase appliances that aren’t built in to solve this issue.
As you can see, there are pros and cons to each installation order, though there are more risks if go floors first. For this reason, carefully consider the materials you chose, what appliances you have and your future renovation plans when making a decision. If you’re working with a contractor, ask which method he or she typically uses.
What other questions do you have about kitchen renovations? Browse our selection of top quality flooring.
Hi, I want to redo the living room, dinning room kitchen and morning room. Do not want carpet in any of these rooms. Currently have carpet in living and dinning, We have dogs and cats and I am really really wondering what is best to go with for flooring, Something that is going to be durable for the long long term, Should we go with Bamboom, Ceramice/tile or other.
What would you recommend that would be easiest to keep nice and look beautiful with a house full of furbabies/dogs/cats and a bunch of grand kids coming over a lot. Thanks for your repply and advice. Hi Sonia, I am not familiar with Mondulea and can’t find anything when I search it so I won’t be able to comment on that product. Either way you can still use self leveller, you will just but it up to the kicker of your cabinets. You can run it under the stove and you will need to decide whether you want to run the floor all the way under the dishwasher as well. Be sure to measure the height difference so you don’t end up not being able to get the dishwasher back in.
Please let us know if you have any other questions! I am planning on renovating my very old kitchen; which is from the 1960s when the condo was built. However, before I moved in 15 years ago, I did tile installation in the condo, and to this day I am very happy with it. I do not want to replace it, and instead just want to the cabinets. Is this a good idea? By the way, when I bought it had white tile; apparently placed new by the seller, it was suggested to me to cut on cost to just put the new one on top of it; which I did.
Not sure if this was a good idea. Hi Mary, Thank you for your inquiry. In your case it is up to personal preference as to which you would like to do first. If you are planning on using a solid hardwood or a wood floor that will be nailed down you will most likely have to do both because that will go under the cabinets.
If you are going with a floating floor you can just butt the floor up against the cabinets under the kicker. Installers will install the floor under the stove and fridge but I can’t answer as to whether they will pull them out or if you will need to do that before hand. Please feel free to give us a call at 1-877-631-2845 if you have any other questions! Hi Karen – thanks for reaching out to us. It is usually recommended that the cabinets be installed before the flooring, as it saves you time and money by not purchasing or installing tile where it can’t be seen under the cabinets. You also don’t run the risk of scratching or damaging your flooring during the cabinet installation process.
As you can see above, there are pros and cons to installing the flooring before or after, but there seems to be less risks by doing the cabinets first. If you have an installer doing this for you, I would highly recommend discussing your options with them, as they are the ones on site:). Please let us know if you have any other questions! Hi Dennis, Thank you for getting in touch!
Luxury vinyl plank would be your best option but you could also go with engineered hardwood or solid hardwood. If you decided to go with engineered or solid you will need to have mats in front of your sink, fridge, dishwasher and stove. You will also have to make sure any spills are cleaned up right away so you floor does not get moisture damage. I have included the link to our vinyl, engineered hardwood and solid hardwood floors below: Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Choose the tile for your project. Wall tile comes in a variety of materials, sizes, and colors.
Types of tile include ceramic, porcelain, glass, and stone. Glazed porcelain and glazed ceramic work well for shower walls because the water can’t penetrate the tile. As for size, here’s a tip: Avoid large tiles in tiny showers; opt for small or medium tile sizes instead. Of course, bigger showers look great with any tile size. When it comes to color, you have lots of choices to fit your bathroom. Don't be afraid to get creative. Mix your tile color and size for a unique look.
If you need some help with tile patterns and ideas, check out some of the many books in store. Two of the most common patterns are jack-on-jack and running bond. (Patterns illustration). Cement backerboard provides a strong and moisture-resistant foundation for shower tile. Do not use drywall. Installing backerbaord is similar to installing drywall.
You don’t need to cover your entire bathroom in backerboard, just the wet shower area. In most cases, your cement backerboard will butt up against existing drywall. In this situation, install a backerboard that is the same thickness as your drywall for a seamless transition. To install cement backerboard, measure the work area and cut to fit. It should cover the same area as the vapor barrier, and extend about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch off of the base. To cut the backerboard: mark it, score it, and snap it. For curves, use a jigsaw with a bit made for concrete.
Using power tools can create a lot of dust, so make the cuts outdoors while wearing safety glasses and a respirator. Next check the vertical layout. Plan on having full tiles at the top, and cut tiles at the bottom because the shower base, floor, or countertop might not be perfectly level. Since you’ll most likely need to cut the tile at the bottom, it’s best to start the installation at the SECOND row. To mark the starting line, first use a level to find the lowest spot.
Hold a full tile there with a 1/4 inch gap at the bottom and a spacer at the top. Mark this height on the wall. This will be your temporary starting line. Numerology 369 registration key.
To see where the top row of tiles will sit, use a jury stick. Here’s how to make one. Set a straight board on the floor, and set the tile in place along the board—use spacers and account for the 1/4 inch gap at the bottom.
Next, hold it up to your temporary starting line and check the top. Remember, you want full tiles at the top.
If you need to adjust, move the layout down. Cutting a little bit off the bottom row won’t be noticeable. Mark a new starting line if necessary. Here’s a tip when installing a backsplash: Don’t worry about cut tiles under cabinets. They won’t be visible.
Install Tile Shower Wall
Once you’ve determined your starting line, extend it along the walls. Now you’re ready for the install. Check out our video.
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